Colonel Saab

An exquisite Indian fine dining experience that captures the essence of both heritage and innovation.

Whilst for many, a restaurant experience is all about the food, service and ambience, not necessarily in that order, for me the back story is also a vital factor.

Colonel Saab is the brainchild of Roop Partap Choudhary, inspired by the travel stories of his father, Colonel Manbeer Choudhary, an officer in the Indian Army, and his wife Binny, journeying across the Subcontinent.

So I was delighted to accept a dinner invitation to Colonel Saab to join renowned restaurant consultant Rajesh Suri, whom I have known for many years and is always great company. I was even more delighted when Mr Choudary was able to join us. Roop revealed that the project was crafted as a “love letter” to his family and as a tribute to India’s wealth of regional culinary diversity.

Early in his distinguished career Rajesh was General Manager at Tamarind in Mayfair, when it became the first Indian restaurant in the UK to gain a Michelin Star. With a career spanning several decades working with some of the best restaurateurs in the business, in my opinion, no one on this side of the pass, has a more impressive curriculum vitae.

Colonel Saab is housed inside the former Holborn Town Hall, which includes the historic court room, built during the reign of Queen Victoria, Empress of India. The scene is set, heightening expectations and delivering a sense of occasion, ahead of the first offerings.  Entering is like stepping into a lavish Maharaja’s residence. The restaurant confidently displays its grandeur, with glittering chandeliers, rich red interiors, Indian artwork, museum-worthy artifacts, and ornate vintage furniture.

Although I had previously enjoyed the hospitality at both Colonel Saab restaurants –  it also has a sister venue by Trafalgar Square – I let Rajesh take the lead when it came to ordering.

We shared a selection of elegantly plated starters: Mall Road’s Dahi Puri, Sarsoi Ajwaini Fish Tikka, Kolhapuri Lamb Chops, and Noor Mahal Chicken Tikka.  The seabass had a subtle kick of mustard and lime shining through its meshed flavours.  The moist chicken thighs, aways the best part of the bird, marinated in hung yoghurt and freshly ground tikka spices, accompanied by mint and coriander chutneys, were a delight.

For the main event, the feast comprised a golden King Prawn Moilee, a perfect balance of coconut milk, turmeric and julienne ginger.

We also we enjoyed the complex layers flavours of Old Delhi’s Famous Lamb Curry,

The one negative was the signature Chicken Chettinad, a Tamil Nadu regional staple and a usually particular favourite of Rajesh’s.  Although near perfect in texture and flavour, was slightly overcooked.

In my opinion, no Indian meal, whether eating at a high faulting place like Colonel Saab, in a ubiquitous high street curry house or a simple home-cooked dinner, is compete without a lentil dish. The Daal Tadka did not disappoint.

To finish it was Dark Chocolate Silk Cake adorned with candy floss and a Mango Kulfi Haluda, both pleasing on the eye, morish on the togue and as not sickly sweet as many Indian puddings tend to be.

The evening was nicely lubricated with a few glasses of a rich, velvety Argentinian Lote Negro Malbec.

Overall, Colonel Saab delivers a memorable and luxurious dining experience that contrasts contemporary Indian cuisine against a deeply historic backdrop.