Benares

Rating: *****

Ambitious renditions of regional Indian dishes, presented with modern European touches from Chef Taneja Sameer helped regained its Michelin after the sudden departure of Atul Kocchar.  Smart bar over-looking a vast open kitchen. Many excellent pescatarian offerings, despite Sameer’s landlocked Delhi origins.

The spacious bar is ideal for enjoying an aperitif, waiting for tardy guests or enjoying a digestive or pot of chai.  A chef’s table affords a splendid theatre of the cavernous open kitchen.  Menus extend across a street food fare of chickpea masala filled cones, Scottish scallops with Malabar sauce, bonsai tree decorations and a note on handwritten labels. Recommended dishes are the succulent gamey muntjac venison balanced by a garlic yoghurt and chilli chutney.   Extensive wine list starting sub £40 with many serviced by the glass.

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