Tresind

Trèsind Mayfair is one of the most exciting openings in London’s Indian fine dining scene. It arrives with the confidence of its Dubai heritage but, importantly, demonstrates that modern Indian cuisine can be both technically accomplished and emotionally engaging.

The evening began with a genuinely warm and professional welcome. Although the basement bar was not yet fully operational, the bartender was knowledgeable, personable and engaging, creating an excellent first impression and setting the tone for the evening.

Dinner was the chef’s tasting menu.

The experience opened with the theatrical “cleansing of the air”, using dry ice to create an atmosphere of anticipation. It was visually striking and certainly entertaining. However, while it immediately captured attention, I questioned its culinary relevance. Theatre has its place in modern gastronomy, but only when it enhances the food rather than becoming the focus. In this instance, it felt like spectacle without adding flavour or meaning to the dining experience.

What followed immediately justified the restaurant’s growing reputation.

The trio of amuse-bouches was exceptional. Each bite was beautifully judged, but the pani puri stood above the rest. It perfectly demonstrated what progressive Indian cuisine should achieve—respecting a familiar classic while elevating it through precision, balance and restraint. It retained its soul whilst feeling entirely contemporary.

The mushroom chai was arguably the standout savoury course of the evening. Intensely savoury and layered with remarkable umami, it displayed extraordinary depth whilst remaining elegant and refined. I often remember dishes for only two reasons: either they are so exceptional they become impossible to forget, or they disappoint so greatly they leave a lasting negative impression. The mushroom chai unquestionably belongs in the first category.

From there, the tasting menu flowed with confidence and purpose. Each course felt connected, allowing the narrative of the menu to develop naturally without unnecessary interruption.

The lamb chop itself was cooked beautifully. Tender, perfectly pink and full of flavour, it showcased excellent technical execution. Unfortunately, the accompanying rosemary vindaloo became the dominant voice on the plate.

Its pronounced rosemary notes overwhelmed the quality of the lamb, whilst the heightened acidity distracted from what was otherwise an outstanding piece of meat. Sometimes confidence in exceptional produce requires restraint rather than amplification.

One of the evening’s most ambitious ideas was the “Khichdi of India”, theatrically assembled tableside using ingredients representing every Indian state. Conceptually, it is a brilliant celebration of India’s culinary diversity and perhaps one of the most original expressions of national identity currently found on a London menu.

For me, however, the foundation of the dish deserves greater attention. Khichdi is ultimately comfort food elevated.

Its emotional connection comes from simplicity executed flawlessly. A beautifully aromatic rice, exceptional organic mung lentils, generous ghee, fresh ginger and carefully developed umami can create extraordinary depth without complexity. The concept is magnificent; the base simply needs greater richness and soul to match its ambition.

The meal concluded as strongly as it began. The desserts were imaginative, beautifully balanced and technically accomplished without becoming overly sweet. The final coffee stone was a delightful surprise—playful, elegant and memorable—and provided the perfect ending to a thoughtfully constructed tasting menu.

Trèsind succeeds because it understands that modern Indian cuisine should evolve without losing its identity.

There are moments where the pursuit of theatre slightly overshadows the ingredients themselves, but these are minor observations within an otherwise outstanding culinary experience.

This is intelligent, progressive Indian cooking that challenges convention whilst respecting tradition. It is a restaurant that cooks with confidence,imagination and technical precision, and one that leaves diners not only impressed, but inspired.

Review by Dev Biswal