Set just of Sloane Square, Kahani means ‘story’ in Urdu. Owner-chef Peter Joseph (ex Tamarind) weaves threads spun from travels through his native Uttar Predesh, other Indian states and Spain, to relate tales with food.

The cavernous interior is hung with macrame chandeliers; furnished with velvet armchairs and generous crimson banquettes. A discrete mezzanine serves as a private dining room cum observation post of the open kitchen and restaurant below.

Working behind glass, Joseph produces some of the best contemporary cuisine to be had in London. His encounters with Spanish tapas have inspired signature small sharing plate starters (recommended: seared scallops in star anise, with smoked pepper chutney and shrimp pickle; smoked Malabar prawns marinated with fresh turmeric and served with a creamy coconut sauce and curry leaves; or spiced green pea cake with cranberry chutney.

Recommended mains: grilled plate stone bass coated in brown garlic and sun-dried tomato; guinea fowl tikka with Chetinad spices with smoked tomato sauce; ajwain roti venison.

For dessert sample a medley of kulfis or a westernised classic of toffee and date pudding with custard cream.

While the spice-friendly wine list is extensive, the cocktails are truly impressive.

Dawate (feasting), full vegan and pre theatre menus. Indian Sunday roasts. Thursday night jazz. Two-hour unlimited brunches, Thursday to Sunday.